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Oak Tree Reviewed

Posted by Oak Tree Ristorante on 10 October 2009 | 298 Comments

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The Santa Cruz Sentinel recently published a review of our restaurant by Ann Parker which we would like to share with those who may not have seen it. To see the original article click here.

California heat waves mean snarled beach traffic and increased fire worries. But they also offer the rare gift of unusually warm nights, such a luxury in our coastal climate.

Donna and I knew just the place to head for dinner on one of those recent balmy evenings. Newly opened, Oak Tree Ristorante in Felton is named for the massive oak spreading its limbs over the chalet-style restaurant building, dining patio and lush gardens. It may offer the most beautiful outdoor seating in the county. A friendly staff person offered us our pick of several tables; we chose one halfway between a little waterfall and a hedge of roses and jasmine. Set on a concrete pad that provided a solid foundation, the table was surrounded by dark green plastic chairs.

Admiring the almost-tropical greenery, I sniffed the sweet night air tinged with a familiar smell. Across the expanse of lawn a smoker cranked away, tendrils of wood-scented smoke drifting out.

"I know what I'm having: Italian barbecue," I said.

Our smiling waitress brought a basket of bread and two bowls, one containing olives, garlic cloves and roasted peppers, another with crushed green olives in oil. We enjoyed the condiments, especially the crushed olives, but agreed that the dense, somewhat bland bread would have been better served warm.

The fairly simple menu offered about a half-dozen each appetizers, salads, pastas and entrées. Donna ordered Polenta alla Griglia $10, a grilled polenta starter I chose an appetizer special, Burrata con Pomodoro $11 -- tomatoes served with mozzarella's sexy cousin, burrata. For entrees, we requested Lasagna di Ricotta e Vegetale $16 and the source of that tantalizing aroma, Porco Affumigato $18, house-smoked pork ribs.with smoked tomato, garlic confit and Gorgonzola.

It's hard to explain the remarkably luscious delicacy of burrata. Imagine the freshest mozzarella you've ever tasted, wrapped around a sweet, creamy center with the consistency of poached egg. Now circle that heavenly fare with slices of perfectly ripe, local organic heirloom and dry-farmed tomatoes from Dirty Girl Produce. It was the stuff of simple food fantasy, heightened by 2007 Storrs Chardonnay glass $10 from the local-and-Italian-heavy wine list.

Donna's grilled polenta was also excellent, although the smoky-seared polenta slabs would have tasted even better served a little warmer. But the rich, honey-sweet smoked tomato was to die for, with the tangy Gorgonzola lending a lovely sweet-salty finish.

We were still murmuring appreciatively when our entrees arrived. Donna's huge block of lasagna was layered thick with tomato and besciamella sauce, ricotta, mozzarella and spinach, the fork-tender housemade noodles melting into this rich blend of flavors. Looking around, Donna said happily, "This feels so much like sitting in someone's backyard in Italy -- but with the advantages of California redwoods and oak trees."

Meanwhile, I was enjoying my big pork ribs coated with subtly sweet, pineapple-tinged marinade. Although somewhat fatty, the delicious ribs were heavy with extremely tender, flavorful meat. I wished that they were hotter; ribs are best served sizzling hot. My accompanying "rustic potatoes" were nicely cooked and seasoned, sort of an Italian version of home fries.

We packaged our leftovers and ordered dessert. Donna's Tegolino de Ciocolato $6 sounded exquisite -- dark chocolate custard with mixed nuts and Grand Marnier -- but unfortunately lacked the deep chocolate flavor we expected. My Gianduia Millefoglie $6 was marvelous, however, three scoops of earthy hazelnut-chocolate gelato decorated with crunchy roasted hazelnut bits and whisper-thin filo dough wings.

Oak Tree Ristorante has an unbeatable setting, pleasant service and some standout dishes; with polishing, this new restaurant could provide the best al fresco dining around.

Ann Parker welcomes your comments, feedback and suggestions about reviews for area restaurants. Contact her at atparker@pacbell.net


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